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Motorcycle Stories and Other Assorted Tales
by C. C. Crow
1996 Broken Cut Foot Motorcycle Tour
8-21 WED
The trip finally begins! I thought about going out a week early,
Phil and family were in Colorado, Durango Monday riding the train
and I thought it would be fun "holding it up", however Becca and
family were in town and I just didn't have the energy. After five
weeks in Alaska and another week up in Canada camping with my
nephew Eric, just relaxing at home had a certain appeal. I did
stuff with Becca and got a little work done and rested up. Okay,
so Tuesday we took them to the airport, dropped into REI old
downtown store for the last time (they are building a new flagship
store), and bought some hiking shoes and raincoat. Back home for
some packing I had a zigzag headache. The cat slept with me
downstairs. I left a mess, but by 10:10 a.m. I was off. Kitty
brought me a tiny snake before I left. If I left earlier I was
going to take Rt. 2 over Steven's Pass but I figured I needed to
make some time so I took I-90 over Snoqualmie, old road up last
part, it needs paving. Ate at Mac's in Moses Lake, just beat a bus
in, went through Cheny and Marshall to see RRs, through rush hour
traffic in Spokane, need to tour someday, off and on buttitus,
acute chronic numb ass, well, not that bad. Stop and photo Kellogg
and others, then Wallace, camp at CABIN CREEK CG, fire and salmon
for dinner, no bugs! Volt meter was oscillating today. Hope its
not the generator-
8-22 THUR
It's cool in the morning, I can feel where my arms and legs stick
out, should have zipped up. I keep saying that every time I wake
up. Stop at Smith and Jones BMW in Missoula to check meter, system
is okay, maybe just meter, or loose wire. Buy new front tire, $120
+ 15 mount and balance. Next destination, BUTTE, my reason for
going this way. Stop along the way and wash my hair in the Clark
Fork River. Very warm summer day. Legally drive 95 mph. Just for a
little while, could go 100. Day time speed is "reasonable". The
downside is it rattles your body and eats up the gas, but it's
sure quick. I'm down to 180 miles per 5 gal. anyway. So I cruise
at 65-70 and take stops here and there. In Garrison there is a UP
train, turns out to be Central Montana RR, never heard of them,
ex-UP jeeps plus some Ramsey lease units. I see the same train
later in Butte. I learn the Butte means brick, I'm sure of it. I
should have come here years ago. I'm through a whole roll of film
before I know it. At least a couple of got to dos. Check out the
old GN roundhouse, now cabinet shop, inside tour. Nice guy. I
criss-cross town, amazed. Head for Pipestone Pass, cowboy camp at
TOLL MTN.
8-23 FRI
It's time to ride! But first I have to break camp. I discover an
ash has burnt a nice hole in my mattress- I recall I have a repair
kit- somewhere... After a walk around the campground I take off,
RR tracks over Pipestone are gone. I think about taking a picture
but don't. It's beautiful country, mountains and vast valleys, sun
bleached grass and pines. Twin Bridges has several nice brick
buildings. I get a quart of oil, bike is down a half, running
nicely. Dell is "two photo town". Into Dillion, there are lots of
photos to take, eat at Taco John's, now it's Interstate time,
scenes are vast but mostly boring, 75 mph in Idaho, Utah same.
There are some photos in Malad City, I eat a sandwich in the shade
of the grain silos, it's hot. Into Salt Lake City on the tail of
rush hour. I think about touring downtown but decide not, it's
getting late and I don't want to run at night. I'm out of gas at
Lehi and discover the Lehi Rolling Mill, very very cool. Dark
photos though. Into Provo I go out to UTAH LAKE CG, bug city,
swarm like mini-tornadoes! I call Rooti, he's had a rough week,
isn't ready, won't make it to Arches so we settle on Colorado
National Monument.
8-24 SAT
Rendezvous Day. I had a nice sleep on the soft grass, oil up the
bike and fix the headlight- which I had adjusted too much and came
unscrewed. Watch SP on Solder Summit, seems weird, used to be Rio
Grande, check out Helper, stop for burger, fries and a shake, push
on into Green River. Take frontage road to avoid I-70 but it is
pretty rough. One more big push and I'm into Grand Junction and on
up to COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT, site 37, talk to Bill and watch
the girls at his camp, they are here for a bikeathon. I set up my
tent and then go into town for a repair kit for my mattress. I
take the loop through the park which is being worked on, poor
bikers. I find the repair kit at Gene Taylors, almost get rear
ended, stop at mall and look for pants, finally settle on Dockers,
back to camp an hour and a half late, Buck is there waiting, Rooti
arrives at dusk, we party till midnight.
8-25 SUN
After breakfast we slowly get going, gas up and hit the City
Market, they are on strike, debate and get sandwich supplies for
river, stop by Dewey Bridge, cruise river road, nice ride but hot
and sleepy, stop at spring for pipe water, then into Moab, look
for mattress, $80! Balk, will try to repair mine again (didn't
work first time). Spend $125 at market- we have a car! Dodge
thunderstorms, almost dodge them, south, then west to Natural
Bridges, oops, campground is full, head for Lake, looking for
sites, Rooti leads, past a couple of maybes, we head right for
center of storm, pass through ridge, no sites, so we decide to go
to Lake Powell, HALLS CG, site 15, cook steaks.
8-26 MON
Time to break camp and get the boat. We are renting an 18 foot
power boat this year, 18-U, with a Merc 150, load up after being
initialized and iced up. Wow, we have a lot of stuff- the result
of having a car. We head south and stop at the swimming cliffs.
The water is up 15-20 feet. Full pool is 3700 ft. As we pull in I
jump out to help pull the boat into a small cove, its slippery on
the sandstone from the algae, my foot slips and I go down. At
first I think I've just stubbed my little toe but then I see
blood, lots of it, the bottom of my foot is split open. Stitches
are $67.50 a piece at the Lake Powell clinic and I need six of
them. We pull out and go over to Bullfrog, Rooti stays with the
boat, Buck and I take the shuttle bus to the clinic. Takes about
an hour. I keep thinking about all the fun I'll be missing. Steve,
the PA, tells me I'm lucky, they send a lot of people home. No
pressure on foot, no swimming. This sucks! But there's nothing I
can do. But party! Back to the boat, we head south, there are lots
of boats and campsites are few. We settle on a spot across from
Iceberg with a view of the Rincon, cook ribs for dinner.
8-27 TUE
My foot doesn't hurt as bad as I thought it would. Or maybe the
ibuprofen works that good. We break camp and head back to the
marina, Rooti checks for mail, we ice and gas up, this boat is a
pig. We run north looking for a home but its not till late that we
find a perch. We check a lot of places out, too much sun, no
beach, no nasty hot babes. We return to the marina once more for
ice cream. It's hot. Our new home is at buoy 103 or so, north
notch. It has a small beach, both morning and evening shade, some
small bushes and a cave to hide the coolers in. Pretty good place
we decide. We have "cut foot" chicken fajitas. I cowboy camp.
8-28 WED
We have a little relief before the sun hits. It's explore north
day, after stopping at the marina to complain about the boat not
working they tell us what to do. We head north and find a place to
swim. All I can do is hang my head and splash water in my face and
towel myself with a wash cloth. This isn't any fair! I want to
dive in. But I can't. The water feels so good. We motor south,
take Buck to Escalente to see Clear Creek. Its a long run back, 30
miles. We are beat. It's supposed to be spaghetti night but we
forget and have ham steaks and beans, quick and easy. We watch for
the moon to come up.
8-29 THUR
I wake early and watch the sun rise. There are a couple of clouds.
I try to fish. The boys slowly rise. After tea and coffee its off
to the marina for gas and ice. We run north a little and check out
some of the side canyons, hang out in the shade around Defiance
House rebuilt Ruins. Buck goes up to see two rangerettes. They
blow their whistles at the speeders. We move down to Moki Canyon
to hang out and swim. The fishermen come by, then other boats
chase us out. We find another swimming spot, the fishermen come by
again, and other boats. It's 4:30, we're surprised, and head back
to camp, now in the shade. The Dickley's have moved in. They go
out for a joy ride and leave poor Rex the dog behind, frying in
the sun. Assholes. We finally have the spaghetti for dinner, then
sit down our last night and really watch the moon rise. Its
orange, we guess because of smoke in the air.
8-30 FRI
The alarm sounds at 5:30 a.m. The moon is up but not the sun yet.
There's just enough light to pack by. We bark and yip at the
neighbors, as Rex had when they were gone. No doubt they will
blame poor Rex. We move our stuff into the boat and take off. It's
a fun smooth ride into the marina, where we unload and reload our
bikes and Buck, his car. Gas up the pig boat and return it. Better
here than on the rocks. We move over to the ferry for a sort and
shower. It's time to look at my foot. Not as bad as I thought, six
nice blue stitches. I shower and redress it. We load up and just
miss the ferry. Buck rides off into the... he's not certain. We go
to the store and ice up. I try to call home, leave a message about
$67.50 stitches. The ferry takes us across for $3.00. It's hot
once again. We take the highway up to Hanksville and stop for gas
and groceries. What to have? Not much of a choice. We talk to
bikers, then push on to Capitol Reef, check the campground but
decide to move on up to BOULDER MOUNTAIN and camp at Pleasant
Creek CG, site 6. $8.00 for pit toilets! BQ chicken, Scotty the
Skunk gets the bones.
8-30 SAT
Off with the faring! We take a trip to the top of the Burr Trail.
What a great ride. The middle of the canyon is beautiful. Hard to
believe it is just BLM land (not any more, it's now a part of the
Grand Staircase NP) 11 miles from the switch-backs we take a side
road on dirt, what the Burr Road used to be. We hide out under a
big rock and eat sandwiches. Back out and to Escalente for ice
cream. We check out grocery and decide its taco night, ride back
to camp, watch for deer!, blazing fire, dogs?
9-1 SUN
We need a day off. Decide to stick around here instead of riding
across Nevada. We go to Torrey and do laundry, take walk around
photo tour, watering babe schoolhouse. This is taco night. Waste
the whole day doing nothing.
9-2 MON
Time to do something. Why not the Burr Trail? This time clock-
wise, through Capitol Reef visitors center first. We bug the help.
The road is in good condition. I'd hate to see it when it is bad!!
Well, it wasn't in too bad of condition but it wasn't great
either. Bumpy. Still, it was a fun run, hot and dusty though. We'd
stop at some shade, sip a beer, and move on. Finally, at the top
of the switch-backs, we find the stray cat perch and have lunch.
Chips and crap with a view. What a view, the Henry Mtns, rock
benches, cliffs and the folding reef before us. We should camp
here! We enjoy the ride back up the staircase to Boulder Mtn. Let
over tacos with a huge log fire.
9-3 TUE
Finally it's time to say good-bye to Boulder Mtn camp. We debate
moving to Great Basin but decide on BRYCE CANYON. But first the
faring have to go back on. Rooti's bike is falling apart. He tapes
it back together. Finally we are off. Past a Japanese who crashed
his rental car, must have been a deer. More development
everywhere, new hotel, ranches, homes. Oh well, up to Bryce CG,
then North CG, in town camping, we aren't happy and go to Sunset,
it's worse there. A loop is RVs only, "no tents", "What's up with
this?" A loop is empty, B and C, the tent loops are nearly full.
We spot 250, 251, "campsite occupied" sign in the one we want, but
nothing else. We wonder if the Dickley's are here> We check the
stub drop, nothing. The camp host drives by and tells us, "It's
occupied, Sir." We argue the point. He changes his tune. We leave.
We know when we aren't wanted. We go out to RED CANYON, site 13,
this is more like it. $9.00, and by the highway, but the johns are
new, and it's sure pretty. We set up camp and BQ chops, no fire.
9-4 WED
Okay, we are camped at Bryce, so we decide to ride to
ZION and hike. Makes perfect sense to us. It takes two hours to
get there, a beautiful ride, nice and sunny. Into Zion through the
tunnel, we go to the lodge for a turkey sub and lemonade, then up
Angle's Landing, twelve switch-backs, it's hot but we make it.
Hippie kids behind us. We hang out and enjoy the view. All good
things must come to an end so down we go, retreat to the Bit and
Spur, then to RV park for $3.00 shower, it's great. We go up the
hill to Mt. Carmel Jct. at sunset, then it's a very slow ride home
at 45 mph through herds of deer, standing at the edge of the
highway. Finally we make it, quick party, search for wood, sleep,
neighbors.
9-5 THUR
Plan for the day, get wood, check out the reservoir. The first
part goes fine, we get a load. We check out the side road to Losee
and Castor Canyons, very nice, in the red rocks, all alone. Lots
of fire wood. We have PB&Js, then head for the rez via the store.
No meats, so we go to Panguitch, cool town, 20 photos, I'm not
sure why, but we never made it to the rez, we have a big cook out,
steaks and rice, large salad. Party. It rains.
9-6 FRI
Last day. We decide to go hike Bryce rather than check
out the rez. We go to visitor's center to look at the options. We
go to Bryce Point and hike to The Hat Shop, pretty day, long
views, so-so sights, decide to retreat and maybe check out the
rez. But Rooti's bike fails on the way, gear box jams in 4th gear,
won't shift. Now what? Call U-haul and find a van in Kanab, 70
miles south, take Rooti down, weird girl, thunderstorms chase us
out of town, chili at store, with corn and ribs, great dinner for
end of trip. Shove that bike in there.
9-7 SAT
Time to say good-bye to Rooti. He's up early, packing the van,
just throw that junk in there. He's off at 9:30. It takes me
another half hour. The camp host comes by, then I'm off solo. I
thought about following Rooti home-- I go back into Pangutch and
then up towards CEDAR BREAKS, a windy old road with nice scenery.
Talk to Pops about motorcycling at CB, tells me about Mt. Shasta,
I swear I've heard it before?? I try to call home. Down into Cedar
City, another nice run, shop, then head across desert to
Minersville and Milford, RR, Drunks sleeping it off. Trailer town.
Push NW across big desert, stop at coke ovens and Frisco ghost
town. Huge desert next! Into Baker, buy beer, see Ausi, up into
GREAT BASIN, Baker Creek CG, site 12. The family is next door.
Nice stars. Cook chicken and corn, no potable water, $5.00.
9-8 SUN
I decide to push on, since I've already done the cave, hiked the
bristle cones and Wheeler Peak- save the repeats for another time.
Does this make sense? Well, I push on. Check out Ely and the
Nevada Northern RR yard. It's already 1:30! Maybe I'm a time zone
off? On to Eureka, stop at the store, then north up route which is
disappointing, just endless desert scrub and blue skies. My hope
to watch trains and scenery are unfulfilled in Carlin- what an
ugly place. I look for film, pass on over priced rolls of expired
24s. Maybe on to Battle Mountain? Into the sun, over rotten road.
I'll never come this way again. The prospects of camps are poor.
Maybe a rest stop? Into WINNEMUCCA I cruise the town, gas up, my
bike has been running poorly, no power. Headwind and heat? I
change plugs, no difference. Maybe its the air filter? It's late
and I'm tired. I pick the Scott Shady Court Hotel, $32.00, a
smoker's heaven, call home and watch TV.
9-9 MON
Rooti's back at work, ha-ha, I think. I shower and pack up. Slept
in too late. I skip breakfast, think about a diner, but move on.
After getting some film from the film babe even more desolation
awaits me riding north. Lots of nothing. I eat lunch at Denio,
then more miles of nothing. I stop at hanging glider point, at
Lake View I decide to head NW instead of going west to Crater
Lake, I drag this nothing out longer. Gas at Presley, Cycle Oregon
in Silver Lake, tons of them. I push on to La Pine, groceries, Its
late so I camp at PRINGLE FALLS CG, site 2, dry and dusty, lots of
trash, no water, no campfires. BQ isn't a campfire is it? I cook a
steak with corn. Ponderosa forest, replanted, the ATV's have run
over everything, nice evening though, after dark a car camper
comes in, sets up and entertains me.
9-10 TUE
The car campers are still in their tent when I leave late at
10:30, no wonder they get to camp late, they are worse than I am!
Another nice day, its flat and in the trees so no vistas, I don't
have a good map nor have I seen one to make my way around. The
highway is good, river seems interesting, fly fishermen in
personal floats at lake, Stop at Beach picnic ground, nice view of
the Sisters, Steve in 54 Chevy with chick, into Bend and mess of
traffic, Mac's. Rt 22 towards Portland, stop by river and snack,
check out campgrounds, at Detroit Lake the road I wanted is closed
so I decide to stay the night, grocery maids, spaghetti, back to
RIVERSIDE CG, great site by very big fir trees, scare neighbor
off.
9-11 WED
Good nights sleep, say hi to neighbors, pack up. Down by log mill,
into town traffic, tons of it, take side road to I-5 to miss
construction, stop at rest stop to wash up, check out Aurora and
take 99-E into Oregon City and across to Gladstone, visit my Aunt
Irene and Uncle Fred, poor Irene, I woke her from her nap. We go
to Italian restaurant for dinner, cute waitress, poor service,
great food (seafood fetticini).
9-12 THUR
After BIG breakfast I say good-bye, go to Jim's Whistle Stop, back
on the Interstate north, cloudy and dank but at least its not
raining. Lunch at Wendy's in Centraila, back onto highway is cold,
takes a while to settle back in, I'd like to go into mountains and
fish but forecast is rain so I head home. I roll on through
Seattle and up I-5, Ma, Pa and the cat are all waiting for me as I
come up the drive.
Next Log - 1996 A
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Cycle Tales
MOTORCYCLE TOUR LOG - 1996